On a recent trip to Iloilo City, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of envy while strolling and biking along the riverside esplanades lined with mangroves in the city. In the downtown area of Calle Real, it felt surreal to see the stately heritage buildings without the usual visual clutter of electric wires framing them.
Tree-lined plazas felt like places locals actually used and enjoyed, with students sitting on the grass chatting with friends and cyclists shooting the breeze on park benches instead of vast areas of unshaded concrete or manicured but fenced-off lawns.
As someone used to the urban sprawl and congestion of cities in Metro Manila, Iloilo City felt like a breath of fresh air. Here are some notable urban developments I appreciated that I hope other cities could replicate.
River Rehabilitation and the Esplanade
While the Pasig River Esplanade in Manila is a fairly new development, the first Iloilo River Esplanade officially opened back on August 18, 2012.
What was once a heavily polluted waterway with informal settlements has been transformed into the award-winning Iloilo River Esplanade. The network of linear parks and promenades designed by landscape architect Paulo Alcazaren now spans over 13 kilometers, serving as a socio-economic hub, a natural flood defense, and a habitat for dense, thriving urban mangroves. Today, there are about 11 esplanade areas around the city, giving people linear corridors for walking, jogging, biking, and recreational activities.
On a morning stroll along one Esplanade, I noticed rules posted prohibiting vendors and bringing in food and alcohol in the area to ensure the area was kept free of trash. On a bike tour later that day, the esplanades provided scenic and speedy shortcuts to key tourist spots around the city, providing an alternate route to city traffic.
Just recently, Iloilo City declared a mandatory 100-meter no-build buffer zone along all its coastal areas and imposed a total ban on coastal reclamation, which shows their commitment to protecting nature over possible commercial gains.
Active mobility and walkability
Even in main thoroughfares, walking felt easy and dignified because of the safe pedestrian paths. While there were a few footbridges in high-traffic areas, there were also clearly marked at-grade crossings in others.
The main highway passing SM City Iloilo, Sen. Benigno Aquino Jr. Avenue (widely known as the Iloilo Diversion Road) featured a protected, 4-kilometer dedicated bike lane separated by greenery, alongside tree-lined pedestrian sidewalks. It was refreshing to be able to bike in the middle of the main highway, but in a safe lane away from motorized vehicles.
Another notable development is the Iloilo Sunset Boulevard, or Iloilo River North Bank Road, a new four-lane thoroughfare stretching 4.99 kilometers along the north bank of the Iloilo River (from Tabucan Mandurriao to Oton Iloilo). I biked through both sides of the stretch of the boulevard, marveling at the dedicated bike lanes and scenic viewpoints along the way.
People-centered public spaces
In many cities around the country, plazas are only used for ceremonial functions. Many plazas are often covered in excessive concrete while grassy areas are fenced off to the public. Most plazas don’t really feel inviting for people to enjoy in an everyday modern setting beyond a quick photo op.
As noted in the exhibit “Places of Memory, Places of Heart: Plazas in the Philippines” in Museo Iloilo curated by Arch. Paulo Alcazaren, plazas in the Philippines, once considered important urban spaces, have devolved due to “urban densification and pressures from private real-estate development.”
“Plazas’ expansiveness and greenery have often been replaced by unnecessary structures or a slew of monuments, reflecting the horror vacui (fear of empty spaces) that afflicts local authorities,” wrote Alcazaren in his curatorial notes.
He points out how conservation and adaptive reuse are often “eschewed in favor of profit or the loss of aesthetic taste.”
I found Jaro Plaza across the Jaro Cathedral pleasant for strolling around at night. It actually had grass and open spaces for people to enjoy, bike racks, benches, and even an outdoor library. According to exhibit notes, a large multi-purpose building was removed in Jaro Plaza to bring back the original open space of the plaza, which looks like it’s made a difference.
Meanwhile, Plaza Libertad in front of the Iloilo City Hall doubles as a local park, with a playground for kids, an outdoor gym for senior citizens, and renovated public restrooms alongside the historic landmarks and monuments.
Underground wires
One of the most dramatic transformations in the city is Calle Real (officially named J.M Basa Street), the heritage street in the downtown area, famously known as the “Escolta of Iloilo. This historic street finally bid farewell to the unsightly “spaghetti” or tangled wires that used to line the streets. Underground power lines now give the street a much-needed makeover and enhance the downtown area’s visual appeal, with the architectural details of the heritage buildings more visible than ever.
Impact on daily living
The efforts started years ago have borne fruit. The integrated approach to climate action has significantly healed its natural ecosystems.
It’s no surprise that in recent years, Iloilo has been recognized as a model for a sustainable city, cited for its approach to urban development, combining climate resilience, environmental management, and community-focused planning.
The city has been consistently lauded as one of the most livable and highly competitive cities in the Philippines when it comes to balanced urban development.
In terms of economic growth, the city’s shift toward sustainability has attracted investments, boosted commerce, and preserved local heritage. The preservation of heritage districts like Calle Real alongside new, eco-friendly developments in the Iloilo Business Park attracts visitors while maintaining the city’s historical identity.
By prioritizing community-centered design, the city has noticeably improved public health and daily life as well.
As other cities in the country grapple with the challenges of rapid growth, Iloilo’s evolving urban landscape sparks some sense of hope and shows that sustainability and development can coexist.
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